My two-stop tour of Austria started in the home of The Sound of Music and ended in that of the Sachertorte. Salzburg is a charming and playful bric-a-brac city, the centre of which is made up of a rabbit warren of cobbled streets and alleys, with beautiful gems along every path and around every corner. Delicately intricate shop signs hang above each and every window, filling the narrow passages with a homemade sense of character; a maze-like map of your surroundings overhead. And all of this simply the opening scene for the magnificent backdrop of endless mountains disappearing into a hazy pastel-coloured sky. In contrast, Vienna is like its bigger, more sophisticated (and less fun) older sister. The streets are wider, the shops more glamorous, the architecture more grand. The city feels more secure in itself, but lacks the quirky, handmade feel of its younger sibling, to whom life still feels an adventure to explore.
After lunch with latest new friend for life Justyn (of Kraków fame) at understated and delicious vegan kitchen GustaV (I had the house salad with cashew cheese – highly recommended), I embarked upon one of Salzburg’s most famous sights: Festung Hohensalzburg (a whopping great fortress atop a whopping great hill). Given that it was 32°C (and rising) I went for the funicular option, which whizzes you up (and down) in a jiffy. Marvellous. The grounds were historic and interesting, but the best feature by far was the spectacular view. A sea of blue, green, grey and cream hues paint an idyllic scene which you could gaze at for hours without getting bored. I spent the rest of the day wandering, wondering if my eyes would survive looking at a mere averagely beautiful city after what they were just exposed to. The jury’s still out…
Along with some obligatory modern art exposure, the rest of my time in the baroque city was very much The Sound of Music focussed. Shown at 8pm EVERY SINGLE NIGHT at my hostel, it would have been rude not to spend one of my two evening’s watching the classic in the place it was filmed. And boy it did not disappoint. (With the addition of ordering a pizza to be delivered straight to my armchair midway through; things couldn’t have got much better.) Full of the rays of golden sun (and pizza), I endeavoured to hit up as many of the famous featured locations as I could the following morning before catching the train to Vienna. I leisurely do-re-mi’d my way through Mirabell Gardens. The luscious green lawns embellished with millions of bright blooms would have given some serious garden envy (if I had a garden (or even a house (or even a damp basement flat)) to my name). I took far too many photos of the Pegasus Fountain where Julie Andrews and her troops do-re-mi’d before me (and you’ll be relieved to hear that I didn’t reenact the scene, playing the part of youngest and cutest von Trapp, Gretl, with my selfie stick to capture it all on film (or did I…)). Having exhausted Mirabell (and my vocal chords) I headed to Nonnberg Abbey (to beg for forgiveness for my sins against music). Situated ‘at the foot of’ the whopping great Festungsberg (felt like at least halfway up as I clamboured towards it), the convent itself was closed! Looks like I wasn’t going to be granted forgiveness after all, but at least my pedometer would be thankful for the trip.
Then – to Vienna! The hostel – not that I thought possible – was to overtake Munich to claim Worst Hostel Yet, but the city was large and there was lots of exploring to do. A looong walk to the city centre from said hostel took me down a pretty trendy street full of cool and quirky bars and cafés with fairy lights galore (anything sporting fairy lights gets a thumbs up from me), with plenty advertising reasonably-priced Hugo Spritz (my new fave heatwave tipple). So that was my evening sorted! As I made my way into the heart of the city everything got bigger and more exaggerated – the size of the buildings, the width of the streets, the grandeur in general. Gelato in hand (pistachio, every time) I strolled the stylish streets, constantly gazing up at the impressive architecture, soaking up the Viennese sun. I soon realised that no matter how beautiful the architecture, there are only so many churches / palaces / politically important buildings a girl can take. I’m sure they each have their nuances and significance, and in isolation would be fantastic places to explore, but I was finding going from city to city to city was getting a little boring. On this realisation, it was definitely time for some prosecco. That helped. A lot.
My remaining few days in the Austrian capital involved visiting Schönbrunn Palace (lovely, but see previous paragraph); an ‘alternative’ free walking tour (meeting place was in a super dodgy area, where I waited (next to the sausage stand, as advised) for a total no-show); my first try of traditional Viennese Sachertorte (wasn’t that taken); and free outdoor opera broadcast live from the opera house (seemed a great opera, but sang in French with German subtitles – so I was a little none the wiser).
Now I’m all citied out, I’m heading to the mountains in Slovakia for some relaxing, trekking, and generally just frolicking around in nature for a bit. I can’t wait!
*Just kidding (but that’s clearly how old I look – sans make-up (and, for that matter, avec make-up) – having induced more than a handful of heart attacks when I confirm that I’m actually twenty-five).